…or more correctly, more flow!
One thing I absolutely hate about hot water tanks is that they typically come with an all-plastic drain valve. When I buy something that costs many hundreds of dollars, I hope that parts will be made from long-lasting and durable materials. Given that hot water tanks should be routinely drained and refilled to minimize sediment building up within them, the drain is a critical component. In fact, on my current water tank, I had to install a screw-on cap to the plastic valve to keep it from dripping. Moreover, the factory-installed valves are not “full flow” units, so the water coming out during a routine flush does not come out with enough force to fully take advantage of the draining to remove heavy sediment particles.
Here’s the water heater I’m currently installing. Remember, I am neither endorsing nor condemning any particular brand or company, but showing you what I am dealing with. It’s been my experience that regardless of brand, the plastic drain is (unfortunately) the standard.
Luckily, many companies make full flow shutoff valves, and they are well worth the investment for the headaches they will save later when doing the flushings. It’s obviously far easier to install one on a new heater than to deal with a tank of hot water and a leaky and inefficient valve. Here’s the valve I purchased:
I will admit that removing the factory valve can be a struggle, mostly because applying too much torque to a plastic part is likely to break it. (Ask me how I know…) In my case, I was able to carefully saw the broken piece out without damaging the threads on the tank. The factory valve was installed with a LOT of sealant which had hardened almost like glue.
The new full-port valve threaded right in after applying some Teflon wrap to the threads for a good seal. Note that it is a ball valve, far superior to the gate valve that came on the heater. The output end, threaded for a garden hose, came with a screw-on cap to prevent a discharge if the paddle of the valve is accidentally opened. When opened, water and sediment will come out way more efficiently than with the original valve.
There may be a concern about voiding a warranty if damage to the tank is done while making this modification, so be careful! The other downside, at least in my situation, is that the handle moves toward the tank to open and the tank body interferes. I will mount the handle to the other side when I use it (or I could install it that way, but having the writing face the wrong direction would drive me nuts!)
I’m saving the actual tank installation for another time, because I’ll be making some plumbing changes at the same time.
I hope all your projects go well. Thanks for reading, and happy restoring!
Ed
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